Payne's Find Salt Lakes

Down Maranalgo Road just out of Payne's Find is a series of salt lakes Frank O'Connor mentions on his Western Australian Birding website. If you want to see Orange Chats, this is, apparently, the place. I stopped here on my way back to Perth after a few days of birding in station country further north.

This might literally be the "middle of nowhere." And being alone in the middle of nowhere is exhilarating. The feeling is an odd combination of awe, privilege, freedom, stupidity and fear all at once. I'm struck by a sense of my own insignificance but also of a primordial belonging to the land.

Although it was September, the weather was blustery and cold with scattered showers: not exactly ideal 'chatting' weather.

A local at the Payne's Find tin shed which served as a cafe, servo, tourist centre, pub and motel, had tried to scare the "blow in" (me) by loudly announcing to the woman behind the counter that there was a "bad cyclone coming" then added "behave yourself" as he walked out the door. If a cyclone really was on the way, I suppose she had no option but to behave herself. I hardly think that's the time to spray paint swear words on the road or do some circle work in her ute.

As a side note, and having spent a few years in the country myself, country folk do spend a lot of time telling women to "be good" or "behave" which is a bit rich considering most of the bad behaviour I witnessed was by men. And what's worse, these cautionary words are often accompanied by a wink, adding a sexual undertone, as if the woman, at a moment's notice, would be engaging in some sort of sexual impropriety. I know I've often thought, "I'm just popping down to the co-op for some milk and eggs but I think I'll stop for some naughty business in the breakfast cereal aisle. If only someone would tell me to behave, I might be able to control myself."

But I digress. Luckily, I had seen the weather report the night before and was not so easily fooled. It didn't bode well for sighting the Orange Chats and I wasn't surprised not to see any. Even so, there were plenty of other birds braving the elements: flocks of ducks and avocets on the lake as well as a lovely Yellow-billed Spoonbill couple who were obligingly perched on a fantastic dead tree.

A lone Bungarra dug in the sand around the lake creating trenches and holes that made it treacherous to walk around; especially if, like most birders, you are focused on more important things than where you are stepping. I thought it might be looking for buried eggs or perhaps grubs. Either way, it was very industrious. In fact, it seemed like the Bungarra and I were the only ones involved in any activity.

A large flock of Pink-eared Ducks and a smaller flock of Pacific Black Ducks shifted to the far end the lake as soon as I arrived but the Red-necked Avocets weren't bothered by my presence at all so I was able to snap a few good shots of them.  I also saw a juvenile Red-kneed Dotterel who was methodically making it's way around the water's edge, head down, searching for tasty invertebrate morsels. Previously, I'd only seen an adult from a great distance at the Esperance Golf Course so I was delighted to have a close view of this youngster.

This is a great birding spot. A half day in better conditions would allow for a more thorough look around, so next time let's hope the weather takes the local comedian's advice.